Cruising Grenada

Chartered a Moorings 405 out of Grenada in late May 1999 and sailed north to the southern Grenadines. Loved it! Great sailing. There is a reason they call it the WINDWARD islands. We had 12-15 knots constantly every day AND night. The drawback to this is that a lot of the anchorages are protected from the ocean swells by reefs but not protected from the wind. Although 15 knots doesn't sound like much, It was kind of nerve-wracking at night in a crowded anchorage with an unfamiliar boat and unfamiliar ground tackle. Nonetheless, it was a blast! DO NOT miss the Tobago Cays! The week we were there, there was a big catamaran regatta going on. Lots of naked frenchmen (and women) on huge cruising cats everywhere.

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Mayreau / Tobago Cays was as far north as we went, so I can't speak to anything north of there. The passages between the larger islands can get kind of rough during those periods when the tidal current is flowing against the trades. On the ~10 NM hop from Grenada to Carriacou we hit it at just the wrong time and had very short-steep 6-10' seas. Not too comfortable but exciting.

Sailing in The Grenadines:

Strong winds are more common in the winter months 'Christmas Winds' The channels are quite exciting; not dangerous but best be prepared for 2 - 3 m seas, a 2kt current to the west, and squalls.

Petit Bayehaut (sp?) north of Kingstown is a good stop: Rolly but so is everything else, a mooring is free with a dinner booking, go see the bat cave.

Chateau Belair is about the northernmost stop for most (charterers) heading north, but I would not go there: stern tie to a tree and roll all night; lock your boat!

St Lucia is going to be a long sail any way you cut it but well worth it. Motoring to the falls of Baleine or even more to the East is what we had done in the past and hope for a good E wind to the Pitons. There you get becalmed about 80% of the time. Staying 3 miles west to avoid the blanket won't work either.

Going south Bequia is a favorite of many. Easiest customs in the entire chain. Good shopping and eats in town. The channel has a steep chop but it's a short trip especially heading south.

You won't make Grenada in two weeks but Carriacou is definitely worth the trip from Union or the south cut from Tobago Cays. If for no other reason than to visit Sandy Island before the next hurricane blows it completely away. Great snorkeling and diving. Clear customs at Hillsborough: still the flavor of the Caribbean 20 years ago.

If rolly with NE wind go to Tyrrel with all the liveaboard yachties. Try Virginia's BBQ chicken at the Rum Shack: $5EC takeout!

Grenada is no longer south enough for most insurance during hurricane season.

Good anchorages in Grenada are becoming increasingly difficult to find, with the introduction of mooring buoys and marinas. ...

... good chandlers and stores. The haul-out facilities are quite good, too. [And fewer boat-boys than at islands further north.]

- St George's: have to anchor outside, so it's rolly.
- Prickly Bay is rolly, but good place to get buses into St George's.
- Anchorages at Hog Island and further E are more protected. Boats in Egmont came through hurricane Ivan okay.
- Grenada Marine boatyard (in St David's Harbour) is not as horribly isolated as everyone seems to feel it is. Buses run past it.

From John on "Celtic Dream":
"My experience has been Fedex is the easiest and most expensive, but they will not ship 'freight' items. Tropical is very good pricing and will consolidate in Miami up to 5 items for free, but takes 2-3 hours to clear items through customs. Post Office General delivery has been used and is very cheap, but can take a month to receive the item. (Fedex time to clear after getting a c14 is 10 minutes. Tropical takes 2-4 hours total.)"

From Lynn on "Silverheels 3":
"Make sure you are paid up for the boat with Customs first. Then take the bus/taxi to the 'Botanical Gardens' or the Government Complex (same place, different names) in St George's, with all of your papers. The Immigration office is at the top of the hill, across from the big building (on your right). Enter, and follow directions (they change depending on the officer you are working with). You will have to pay EC$25 per person per month to stay, and you can extend for up to three months. Give yourself a couple of hours, and try not to go on a Monday or a Friday!"

I went on a Monday morning, doing Customs first at Prickly, and had no trouble. No lines. Treasurer's office downstairs takes credit cards, but I paid cash. ATM across the street from Immigration, too.