Places to visit in Europe

Rome

• Churches:
  • St Peter's Basilica at the Vatican
  • Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore
  • Basilica di San Giovanni, in Laterano
  • Chiesa Sacro Cuore di Gesu, in Prati
  • Chiesa di San Gioacchino, in Prati
  • Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura (St. Paul Basilica Outside the Walls)
  • Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva
  
  
  
• Museums:
  • Musei Capitolini: massive; sculpture.
  • Museo Leonardo da Vinci
  • National Roman Museum - The Baths of Diocletian
  • Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant'Angelo: castle, armor, views.
  • Palazzo Doria Pamphilj
  • National Museum of Palazzo Venezia
  • Museo Altemps
  • Palazzo Colonna - Galleria Colonna
  • Vatican Museums / Sistine Chapel
  • Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna E Contemporanea
  • Scuderie del Quirinale: exhibition space, contents vary, check for current exhibits.
  • Palazzo Barberini
  • Galleria Spada: relatively small but very nice.
  • Galleria d'Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale
  • Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica - Galleria Corsini
  • Museo Boncompagni Ludovisi: design and fashion and history; free.
  • Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Antica (AKA Palazzo Barberini ?)
  
  
  
• Sites:
  • Museo Condominiale di Tor Marancia: neighborhood with lots of interesting murals painted on the sides of buildings.
  • Piazza Navona
  
  
  
• Music and Theater:
  • Auditorium Parco della Musica (Center for Performing Arts)
  
  
  
• To-Do:
  • Go to top of dome of St Peter's.
  • Football: SS Lazio. Play in Stadio Olimpico.
  • Football: AS Roma. Play in Stadio Olimpico.
  
  
  
• Transport:
  • See huge writeup in Wikitravel's "Rome"
  • Airport:
    Take the direct train "Leonardo Express" from Fiumicino airport station (train every 30 minutes) to Roma Termini train station.
  • Metro:
    Civitatis Rome's "Rome Metro"
    Daily from 5:30 am to 11:30 pm. On Friday and Saturday, the metro runs until 1:30 am.
  • Trains: Trenitalia
  • Overall manager of transit: ATAC
  • If you're not doing a lot of trips each day, best ticket is the single-ride ticket (Biglietto Integrato a Tempo, or BIT) for €1.50.
  
  
  

Our experience 5/2016

Arriving at the airport, there is a train-ticket kiosk right at baggage claim; buy tickets there while waiting for your luggage. We used the FR1 train. When validating tickets near the train, put ticket in with the arrow reversed (pointing toward you) ! Train has no real space for luggage, which is strange.

We stayed in an apartment in Trastevere, about 2 blocks from the train station, and 2 blocks from stop for Tram 8 into center. The only bad surprise: there is a €3/person/day "tourist overnight" tax in the major tourist cities of Italy, so we had to pay that.

We found eating in Rome to be pretty expensive. A simple bread-2sodas-1pizza-1spaghetti meal usually was €35 or so. We found the lasagna and spaghetti and pesto dishes to be disappointing, and the pizza pretty good.

We bought the 7-day Metro/bus/train pass, which was very convenient (just carry it with you, never have to use it except when entering Metro). Validate it before the first trip you take. €24 apiece, and we took about 20 trips in 6 days, so it was cheaper than buying single-trip tickets. The pass doesn't cover the train to/from the airport.

We went to St Peter's twice, once to see the basilica, the other time to see the Pope in an "Angelus" (AKA "Regina Coeli" ?). Both were nice, but there wasn't much to the "Angelus", just the Pope talking. Capitoline museum had lots of art, good view of the Forum, but left me a bit cold. Palazzo Doria Pamphilj also stuffed with art, stunning building, wonderful. Couldn't get tickets for the Borghese Gallery; have to buy them well in advance.

Best sites were the churches: free, and full of art and decoration. Every time you see a church somewhere, try to go in. And some of them have free concerts.

Clothing: prices at street-vendors seemed to be about the same as prices inside stores. Many clothing shops close around 8 or 9 ?

If an ATM says "we're going to do a Mastercard transaction", don't do it. Both ATMs I did use didn't say anything about a fee, and no fees were imposed.

Edinburgh Scotland

• Google map
• Transport map
• When to go: July.


• Museums etc:
  • Abbey and Palace of Holyroodhouse (royal palace, and art).
  • National Museum of Scotland and Royal Museum.
  • National Gallery of Scotland
  • Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art.
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• Churches etc:
  • St Giles' Cathedral.
  • Mary King's Close.
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• Monuments etc:
  • Edinburgh Waverley Railway Station.
  • Edinburgh Castle.
  • Scottish Parliament
  • Royal Botanic Garden.
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• Music and theater:
  • Edinburgh Playhouse.
  • Festival Theatre.
  • Usher Hall: Royal Scottish National Orchestra.
  • Bedlam Theatre.
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• To do:
  • Walk along the Water of Leith, a small river.
  • Hike the short climb up Calton Hill to see some of Edinburgh's most iconic monuments.
  • Arthur's Seat: The extinct volcano to the East of the city centre offers fantastic views.
  • Football at Heart of Midlothian FC's Tynecastle Park, or Hibernian F.C.'s Easter Road Stadium.
  • Harry Potter fans need to stroll down Victoria Street, said to have been the inspiration for "Diagon Alley".
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• Outside:
  • Inverness ? ScotRail train every 2 hours.
  • Glasgow. Take ScotRail train.
    See Glasgow Cathedral, Glasgow Central Station, Burrell Collection (art), Gallery of Modern Art, Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum.
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• Transport:
  • Edinburgh International Airport (EDI).
  • Edinburgh Trams from airport to city centre every 8-10 minutes between 06.15 and 22.45.
  • Lothian Buses operate 4 routes from airport to city.
  • Edinburgh Waverley Railway Station.
  • ScotRail
  • Edinburgh Bus Station near St Andrew Square.
  • Twp local bus companies:
    Lothian Buses (red/white; all-day ticket for £4),
    First (mostly outlying areas to the east and west of the city).
    Also Edinburgh Coach Lines operate service 13.
    Also Edinburgh Trams (included in Lothian all-day ticket).
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Copenhagen Denmark

• Google map
• Transport map
• Central metro map
• When to go: July.
• Danish Krone (DKK, Kr) is about 7.5 Kr / 1 €.
• AC outlets same as in Spain.
• Don't use Euronet ATMs: bad rate and high fees.
• Chose the Scandic Falkoner hotel, partly because next to a key metro station (Frederiksberg). Booked through Expedia because it was cheaper than direct.
• Copenhagen Visitor Centre, Vesterbrogade 4 (near Copenhagen Main Station). Map. Summer open MTWRFS 0900-2000 Sun 1000-1800.
• Basic Danish Phrases for Travellers
  
  
• Museums etc:
  • Danish National Gallery (Statens Museum for Kunst; SMK): closed Mondays.
  • Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (sculpture, mostly). TWRFSS 1000-1600, M closed. I read somewhere that it's free admission on Tuesdays, but that's not true. I found the museum a bit boring.
  • Davids Samling (The David Collection): mostly Islamic art; free. TRFSS 1000-1700, W 1000-2100, M closed. Fairly nice place.
  • Ordrupgaard: north outside city ?
  • Louisiana Museum of Modern Art: In Humlebaek, which is 35 minutes north of city with DSB rail from the Central Station [train destination is Helsinger; one-way ticket 74 Kr]. Special combination tickets for the rail fare and museum entry fee are available, but you can't buy them at the machines, you have to go to the DSB office in the central station, or maybe online. From the regional train station in Humlebaek, it takes 10-15 minutes to walk to the museum. Supposedly there is a bus too, and the train ticket is valid on the bus, but we didn't see the bus. Open TWRF 1100-2200, SS 1100-1800, closed M. Admission 145 Kr. I found the art to be just okay, but the hillside setting is very nice.
  • Arken Museum of Modern Art: south outside city ?
  • Thorvaldsen Museum (sculpture, art, furnishings): TWRFSS 1000-1700. Free on Wed.
  • Experimentarium (science): north outside city ?
  • Den Bla Planet (aquarium): Kastrup metro station near airport.
  • Cisternerne (Museum of Modern Glass Art): modern glass art. FSS 1400-1800. Interesting setting (underground cisterns), but very poor art and well overpriced at 115 Kr; skip it.
  • Charlottenborg mansion, various art exhibits. Kunsthal Charlottenborg. Modern art. Closed M, open TWRF 1200-2000, SS 1100-1700.
  • Rosenborg Castle. 1000-1600. Get there early, or the wait will be long (but you do get a timed ticket, so you could buy ticket and come back later). Or maybe buy a timed ticket online ? Nice place, a palace not a castle, a bit too dimly lit, crown jewels in the basement.
  • Ordrupgaard (art): north outside city, near Jaegersborg Dyrehave.
  
  
• Churches etc:
  • Marmorkirken (The Marble church; Frederikskirken). MTWR 1000-1700, FSS 1200-1700. Admission
  • Vor Frue Kirke (Church of Our Lady). 0800-1700.
  • Grundtvig's Church
  
  
• Monuments etc:
  • Botanical Gardens: open every day 0830 to 1800 in summer, free except for the Palm House.
  • Rundetarn (the Round tower): climb stairs for view. 1000-2200.
  • City Hall: free.
  • Kongen Have (Kings Garden), the garden of Rosenborg Castle.
  • Frederiksberg Have park. Interior of palace can't be visited.
  • Borsen (stock-exchange building).
  • Christiansborg Slot / Christiansborg Palace: check to see which parts are open on the particular day you plan to go. Combination ticket DKK 175. Sounds maybe less interesting, to me.
  
  
• Music and theater:
  • Det Kongelige Teater (The Royal Theatre): mainly ballet and drama.
  • Skuespilhuset (The Royal Danish Playhouse). Map. Metro station Marmorkirken or Kongens Nytorv.
  • Copenhagen Opera House (Operaen). Calendar
  • Det Ny Teater (The New Theatre): plays and musicals.
  • Tivoli Concert Hall (home of Copenhagen Philharmonic Orchestra).
  
  
• To do:
  • Canal tour of the inner harbour and canals. Two companies: Stromma, and Netto (slightly cheaper, still nice). Depart every 20 minutes from 1000 to 1900, 1-hour tour. Go early, there will be a line later. We did Netto, and it was fine. 50 Kr.
  • Walk in Nyhavn neighborhood.
  • Walk in Vesterbro and Kodbyen neighborhoods, next to Copenhagen Central Station. [We did, and I didn't find it interesting. Maybe we didn't go to the right parts.]
  • Walk in Freetown Christiania neighborhood. Map Not as interesting as I hoped it would be, but the Christians Church was nice and the bastions have nice parks on them. Free admission to the church (open 1100-1530), but 69 Kr if you want to climb the tower, and the day's tickets to climb the tower sell out quickly.
  • Palaces of Amalienborg
    Changing of guard at noon. It goes on for about half an hour, they march around and then out past Marble Church, so if you can't get a good photo at first, do it later.
    Site. Open every day 1000-1700 in summer. Admission DKK 120. Metro station Marmorkirken (closest to the museum) or Kongens Nytorv. Museum entrance is in the main square.
  • Stroget pedestrian mall, shopping. From Radhuspladsen to Kongens Nytorv.
  • Tivoli Gasrdens amusement park, especially at night. Site Open MTWRSun 1100-2200 FSat 1100-2400. Entrance fee 155 DKK (225 DKK on Friday concert evenings), ride pass 169-259 DKK.
  • Football: F. C. Kobenhavn. Parken Stadium, metro station Trianglen
  
  
• Outside (maybe take passport if going to Sweden, even though it won't be checked):
  • Train to Malmo, Sweden. Old town, St Peter's church, Malmo Castle. Train 39 minutes from central station to Malmo Central, says final destination is Molndal. About 100 DKK one-way. Same train goes to airport, so it can be crowded. Malmo was a bit boring: a couple of nice churches, some nice pedestrian streets, we didn't go to the art museum, don't know where the castle is. I'd say skip it.
  • Train to Lund, Sweden. Old town, Lund Cathedral, All Saints Church, open-air Museum of Cultural History, library building at the University of Lund. Train 50 minutes from central station to Lund.
  • Tour to castles in Sweden ?
  • Roskilde: a World Heritage site, with cathedral and Viking museum.
  • Frederiksborg Castle (and museum of national history) in Hillerod. S or A train 38 minutes from central station to Hillerod, then 1.5 KM walk to castle. Or from Hillerod train station, take bus 301 to "Frederiksborg Slot". Open every day 1000-1700.
  • Kronborg Castle in Helsingor. R train 45 minutes from central station to Helsingor, then 1.5 KM walk to castle. Open every day 1000-1700.
  
  
• Transport:
  • Kastrup Airport (CPH). Train (best to Copenhagen Central Station or the western part of Copenhagen City) ticket to city center: 36 Kr, buy from automated vending machines or the ticket counter located inside the atrium of Terminal 3. Or take metro (best to Copenhagen City or Frederiksberg), same price, located northern tip of Terminal 3 past lifts to train.
  • Metro
  • Metro tickets: A 5-day city-center-small ticket costs DKK 300, unlimited rides. A single-ride 2-zone (as in Frederiksberg to center) ticket costs DKK 24.
  
  

Hungary

Leipzig

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Magdeburg

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Prague

• Sites:
  
  
  • Prague Castle: 350 CZK includes castle, St. Vitus Cathedral, castle picture gallery, palaces, museums, royal gardens. Valid for two days, but you can go in each ticketed part only once. Tram 22 goes up the hill above the castle. I'd say: don't pay for the ticket, just wander around for free, you can see enough of the cathedral for free.
  • Charles Bridge. Nice, pedestrian-only, crowded.
  • Charles Square.
  • Astronomical Clock
  • Storch building.
  • Jan Hus monument.
  • Estate Theatre.
  • Old Town Hall.
  • Prague Giant Metronome
  • Troja Chateau.
  • Vitkov Hill: National Memorial, garden, views.
  • Petrin Hill.
  • Clementinum: building complex including national library.
  • Wallenstein Garden.
  • Clam-Gallas Palace.
  • Vysehrad Castle with Basilica of St Peter and St Paul. Church not too impressive, cemetery a bit interesting, nice area to wander through.
  
  
  
• Museums:
  
  
  • Castle Picture Gallery and others.
  • National Museum.
    Ticket covers all 8 or 9 buildings of the National Musuem, for a 5-day period.
    The main "historic" building is beautiful but doesn't have much art.
    "New" building next door also nice but somewhat empty, or maybe we didn't see all of it.
    Lapidarium seems to be temporary sculpture exhibits; it was being emptied when we tried to go there.
    Sternberg Palace (art gallery), Hradcanske namesti 15, Prague 1. In upper entrance to royal palace complex. TWRFSS: 10 AM - 6 PM.
  • Strahov Monastery.
  • Czech National Gallery (Narodni galerie).
    Collections in Sternberg Palace, St George Convent, and Veletrzni Palace
  • Czech National Museum (Narodni muzeum)
  • Prague City Gallery.
    2nd floor of municipal lbrary.
    Marianske namesti 1, entry from Valentinssa street.
    TWFSS 10-18, R 10-20.
  • Czech Museum of Fine Arts
  • Museum of Decorative Arts
  • National Technical Museum (Narodni technicke muzeum)
  • Prague City Museum
  • Lobkowicz Palace
  • Aviation Museum at Kbely.
  • DOX - Centre for Contemporary Art
  • Museum Kampa: modern Central European art
  • Portheimka glass museum. Stefanikova 12, praha 5.
  
  
  
• Churches:
  
  
  • St. Vitus Cathedral: in castle complex.
  • Tyn Church / Church of Our Lady before Tyn. Entrance hard to find, up narrow alley near Dvorak/Dali museum, from Staromestska square. Closed 1-?. Photography not allowed.
  • St. James Church / Church of St. James the Greater.
  • St. Nicholas Church
  • Church of Our Lady Victorious with Infant Jesus of Prague.
  • Synagogues are closed on Saturdays and on Jewish holidays.
  • Old-New Synagogue (Staronova synagoga).
  • Jerusalem Synagogue (near main train station). Closed for technical reasons when we were there June 2019.
  • Spanish Synagogue
  • Jubilee Synagogue
  • Loreta: Baroque convent
  
  
  
• Music and theater:
  
  
  • Lobkowicz Palace: Classic Midday Concert at 13:00.
  • National Theatre including National Theatre, Music Theatre Karlin, Estates Theatre, New Stage.
  • Czech Philharmonic (in Rudolfinum)
  • Prague Symphony Orchestra (in Municipal House)
  • Prague State Opera (in Smetana Theatre)
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• To do:
  
  
  • Boat ride on the river.
    Pleasant but not great. I'd say pick the cheapest/shortest and maybe go in late evening.
  • Football etc: sport
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• Day-trips out of Prague:
  
  
  • Main train station is Praha hlavni nadrazi (the central station, abbreviated to Praha hl.n.).
    
    
  • Plzen:
    
    Pilsner Urquell brewery, second biggest Jewish synagogue in Europe (closed on Saturday, when we were there), cathedral (closed for reconstruction in 2019 when we were there), highest church tower in the Czech Republic, medieval underground labyrinths, medieval city armoury, oldest brewery museum in the world. The religious art museum was pleasant.
    
    Train from central station, 1 hours 15 minutes, €5 one-way.
    Bus from metro B Zlicin, 1 hour.
    
    
  • Kutna Hora: Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, more.
    Train from Praha-Liben station, 45 minutes, €5 one-way.
    
    
  • Terezin: concentration camp.
    
    No train service: no station.
    Bus from Nadrazi Holesovice metro station (red-C line), less than 1 hour, €5 one-way. Bus goes every hour.
    
    Maybe worth doing. Huge fortress complex with multiple histories. We spent about 5 hours there, longer than I wanted to, but it was interesting.
    
    
  • Nizbor: glass factory.
    Train from central station, 1 hour 10 minutes, €4 one-way.
    
    
  • Brno.
    Train from central station, 2 hours 30 minutes, €4 one-way.
    
    
  • Dresden:
    Train from central station, 2 hours 10 minutes, €20 one-way.
    
    
  
  
  
• Transport:
  
  
  • Vaclav Havel Airport Prague
    Symbol PRG.
    
    ATMs in terminal, before, inside, and outside baggage claim. Don't let them do currency-conversion for you.
    
    Public transport tickets, which are valid on the buses, metro, and trams can be bought from kiosks called Public Transport. Validate your ticket on the bus.
    
    We bought bus-metro ticket at the bus booth outside of baggage claim, 32 CZK each. Took 100 bus (which went 1 stop to terminal and dumped us off, had to cross street to catch 100 bus again), to Zlicin metro station. Bus stops very briefly and drives very roughly; you have to hustle to get on and off, and hold on while they're driving. Other buses (119, AE) are more direct, but this one happened to give us only one connection to our destinaton.
    
    Express bus: buy ticket from the driver.
    
    When leaving, we took the AE bus from the main train station to the airport. Some tips: Go an hour earlier than usual. The AE bus might be full and you'd have to wait for the next one, and many things (especially Passport Control) at the airport are very slow. Bus costs CZK 60 each. In the main train station, from the metro platform, you have to go up about 3 floors inside the station, to a street that is sort of on top of the station, to get to the AE bus. Follow signs that have both a bus symbol and an airplane symbol on them. In the airport, the Security check is done just before getting to the gate, so you probably won't be able to carry a bottle of water onto the plane.
    
    
  • Public buses don't enter the historic districts; you have to transfer to tram or metro.
    
    
  • Validate your ticket when you get on the bus. In the metro, validation boxes are located inside the stations before the stairs. After having changed the tram/bus, you must not validate it again.
    
    
  • Buy single-trip (30 or 90 minutes) tickets. The 24-hour or 3-day tickets are not economical unless you plan to travel more than 4 times a day for 90 minutes.
    
    
  • But we were in Prague for 2 weeks, and should have bought the monthly ticket for 670 CZK. If you take more than 28 short trips, the monthly pass is better. I assume the "month" starts when you first use the monthly pass, not on first day of the calendar month.
    
    
  • Prague Metro
    
    
  • Prague Integrated Transport
    
    
  • Trains: we took only one, round-trip to Plzen, but this was our experience:
    
    When you buy "a ticket", what you get is a "flexi-ticket" that lets you ride at any time that day. But it does NOT guarantee you a seat. Most seats (on the Plzen train) are assigned/reserved, so you may have to stand. It may be possible to pay additional to the conductor on the train to change from flexi to assigned seat. But probably better to buy the assigned-seat ticket in the first place. And even if there aren't many people waiting on the platform, so you think there will be plenty of seats, the train may already be 4/5 full when it arrives from elsewhere. Or after you get on and sit, at the next stop someone may board with a reservation for the seat you are in.
    
    
  
  
  
• Combined pass to all of the Jewish attractions costs 480 CZK (about €19).
  
  
• Carry a lot of coins: most pay-toilets cost 10 CZH, and many metro-ticket machines take coins but not bills.
  
  

Vienna

• Museums:
  • Museum of Fine Arts (Kunsthistorisches Museum)
    Wikipedia's "Kunsthistorisches Museum"
    Wonderful; don't miss it. Skip the top floor (coins). Middle floor is stuffed full of masterpieces by Rubens, Titian, Raphael, etc. Lower floor lots of nice artifacts collected by the emperor or duke or whoever.
  • Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer; aka the Secular and Ecclesiastical Treasures) in the Hofburg. Can get combined ticket with Museum of Fine Arts.
  • The New Palace (Neue Hofburg)
  • Hofburg Palace: Imperial Apartments, Sisi Museum and Imperial Silver Collection (Kaiserappartements, Sisi Museum, Silberkammer).
    Nice but not great; maybe skip it.
  • Albertina: mainly modern art, but also royal apartments. Very nice; don't miss it.
  • MAK (Austrian Museum of Applied Arts / Contemporary Art)
  • Depot of Contemporary Art (Gefechtsturm Arenbergpark): part of MAK.
  • Natural History Museum.
    Natural History Museum (Naturhistorisches Museum).
    Nice; extensive displays of stuffed animals, minerals, fossils, meteorites.
  • Gallery of the Academy of Fine Arts (Gemildegalerie)
  • The Belvedere: palace/mansion/museum.
  • Vienna House of the Arts (Kunst Haus Wien): modern art.
  • Vienna Museum: city history museum.
  • Museum of Military History.
  • Leopold Museum.
  • MUMOK aka Museum of Modern Art aka Ludwig Foundation.
  • Josephinum.
  • Liechtenstein Museum: baroque art, Rubens.
    Guided tours only, by reservation only, on selected Fridays only.
  • Technical Museum.


• Churches:
  • Jesuitenkirche.
  • Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Cathedral).
    Dark, dank, plain, most of it closed off from the public. But it's free.
  • Chapel of the Imperial Palace (Burgkapelle).
  • Karlskirche.
  • Votivkirche. Very nice, well worth a visit.


• Schloss Schonbrunn: enormous palace; must-see. Tram 10 or 58, bus 10A.
• Rathaus (City Hall). on TripAdvisor
• Parliament.
• Prater Park: has a giant ferris wheel, various other rides and attractions. Expensive.
  Prater"
  city-walks "Viennese Prater Opening Hours, Ride Prices & Tips"
  
• Football: Rapid Vienna (play at Gerhard-Hanappi-Stadion) and Austria Magna. Also see Wikipedia's "Vienna sport".
• WienTourismus (Vienna Tourist Board)
• Vienna Unwrapped's "Vienna Walks - Six Routes With Maps To Guide Your Sightseeing"


• Music:
  • Opera House (Wiener Staatsoper). Wikipedia's "Vienna State Opera"
    Probably will have only the most expensive tickets (€130 and up) available unless you buy well in advance. We bought cheap seats for a bad opera, just to get into the building. The entranceway parts of the building are nice, but the auditorium itself is plain and uninteresting. I'd say skip it, go to Volksoper instead.
  • Vienna Hofburg Orchestra (Wiener Hofburg Orchester).
  • Theater an der Wien.
  • Volksoper Wien (Vienna People's Opera)
    Wikipedia's "Vienna Volksoper".
    Slightly longish Metro ride to get there, but a nice opera house, smaller than the State Opera House.
  • Wiener Musikverein, home of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra.
  • Wiener Konzerthaus, home of the Vienna Symphony.
  • Vienna Mozart Orchestra.
  • Music of Vienna - Classical Concerts.
    
    Somehow, the ticket vendors standing in front of the cathedral have better prices than the web sites do, about €10 cheaper. And sometimes they will upgrade you to a better section.
    
    We went to the Vienna Residence Orchestra in Palais Auersperg, and it was terrific. About 9 instruments in the orchestra, about 250 people in audience, nice space, lovely music, nice dancing and singing. Well worth doing. All seats are good, buy the cheapest tickets.
    
    We went to the Palais Schonborn (not Schonbrun). Technically, the performance probably was better than the Vienna Residence Orchestra. But it was less fun. About 6 instruments in the orchestra, about 100 people in audience. Well worth doing. The building is hard to find, allow extra time.
  • Wikipedia's "Vienna balls".


• Transport:
  • Vienna airport:
    S-Bahn (commuter rail) costs about €4 to city center, but have to connect at edge of city.
    IC/Railjet train goes straight to Vienna Hauptbahnhof (Main Station).
    City Airport Train (CAT) nonstop to Wien-Mitte Station (Landstrasse).
  • Bratislava airport:
    Blaguss (bus): from the airport terminal building and arrives at Erdberg(U3) in one hour for €10. Postbus/Slovak Lines (bus): from the airport terminal building and arrives to Sudtirolerplatz(U1) in under two hours for about €8.
  • Inside Vienna:
    Integrated transport system (bus, tram, train). Buy ticket in machine, validate in station or aboard bus. Unlimited transfers. One-week ticket for about €16.
  • Boats to Bratislava (but generally do not operate between October and March):
    Twin City Liner (75 minutes; €40-70 round-trip)
    LOD
    Bratislava City Guide's "Bratislava to Vienna by boat"
    "this is one of the less interesting stretches of the Danube"
    
  • Train to Bratislava:
    Bratislava City Guide's "Bratislava to Vienna by train"
    
  • Bus to Bratislava:
    FlixBus
    Eurolines
    

Graz

• Museums:
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• Churches:
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• Music:
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• Transport:
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Bratislava, Slovakia

• Churches:
  • St. Martin's Cathedral
    Open generally MTWRFS 0900-1130, 1300-1600, Sunday 1330-1600. Admission free.
  • Church of St. Elizabeth (Blue Church).
    Hard to get inside ?
  • Kostol Trinitarov (Trinity Church).


• Bratislava castle
  Trolleybus 203 or 207.
• SNP Bridge (Most SNP; Most Slovenskeho narodneho povstania; previously called Novy most; New Bridge).
  Observation deck open 1000-2300, admission €6.50.
• Red Stone Castle (Cerveny Kamen Castle)


• Museums:
  • Slovak National Gallery (SNG).
    Open TWFSS 1000-1800, R 1200-2000, closed Mondays. Admission free.
    Under renovation 11/2017 ?
  • Bratislava City Gallery (GMB).
    Open TWRFSS 1100-1800, closed Mondays. Admission €3.50.
  • Milan Dobeš Museum - modern art.
  • Slovak National Museum (SNM).
    An umbrella organization, not sure if there are any exhibits in the main building.
  • Bratislava City Museum (MMB).
    Open TWRFSS 1100-1800, closed Mondays. Admission €3.50.
  • Nedbalka Gallery - modern art.
  • Bratislava City Museum (Mestske Muzeum).
  • Natural Science Museum.
  • Museum of Transport (Stm Muzeum Dopravy).
  • Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum.
    Open TWRFSS 1000-1800, closed Mondays. Admission €10.
    Well outside of town, but a bus does run to it: Bus 90, but buy tickets for both directions when getting on in center.
    Quite nice museum, but not sure it's worth the effort and price.
  • Heydukova Street Synagogue and Jewish Community Museum.


• Rusovce Mansion.
• Slovak Radio Building (Slovensky rozhlas).
• Botanical Gardens of Comenius University.
  Botanicka 3; take tram 1, 4, 5, 9 or 12 to stop Botanicka zahrada.
• Eurovea shopping center.
• Sad Janka Krala park (on the right bank of the Danube and next to Aupark shopping centre).


• Music:
  • St. Clare's Church (Kostol klarisiek). Currently used as a concert hall.
  • Slovak National Theatre (nova budova Slovenskeho narodneho divadla).
  • Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra.
  • Capella Istropolitana chamber orchestra.
  • Several annual music festivals, such as the Bratislava Music Festival and Bratislava Jazz Days and the Wilsonic Festival. During the summer, various musical events take place as part of the Bratislava Cultural Summer at Bratislava Castle.


• Football: team Slovan Bratislava.
• Devin Castle (hrad Devin).
  Bus 28 or 29. Closes around 1600 ?
• Slavin monument and cemetery
• Bratislava Free Tour. Free walking tour covering the city's sights, culture and history. Every day at 1100 and 1500.


• Transport:
  • Arriving from Vienna airport:
    Blaguss bus from airport to bus terminal under New Bridge, about €7.
    Postbus/Slovak Lines bus (tickets): to bus station, about €7 plus €1 per suitcase, includes Wi-Fi.
    No trains from airport.
    Uber: about €40.
  • Arriving from Bratislava airport:
    61 bus from airport to main train station (Hlavna stanica) or to connect to trams into center.
  • Bus tickets are sold by machines, not drivers, in this bus system. Validate after you get on board.
    Ticket is valid for 15 (short route), 30 or 60 minutes after validation, and includes transfers.
    Passes for 1, 3 or 7 days are available.
    Bus, tram, trolley generally operate 0430 to 2330. There are some night buses operating out of the main rail station.
  • Trains: two stations, Bratislava hlavna stanica (main station) and Bratislava-Petržalka (south).
    From Bratislava hlavna stanica take 93 or X13 bus to center.
    From Bratislava-Petržalka take 80 or 91 or 191 or 93 or 94 bus to center.
  • Useful site: imhd.sk Public transport

Bucharest

• Churches:
  • Saint George New Church (Biserica Sfantul Gheorghe Nou): across street from east edge of Old Town, south of Piata Universitate. Quite nice.
    on TripAdvisor
  • Saint Spyridon the New Church
  • Saint Joseph Cathedral
  • The Holy Saviour Italian Church
  • Biserica Coltea: southeast corner of Piata Universitate.
  • Coral Temple: synagogue, a block or two southeast of Saint George New Church (Biserica Sfantul Gheorghe Nou), might be hard to find in twisty streets.
    Need passport to get through Security ?
  • Biserica Sf. Nicolae
  • Biserica Sfantul Anton - Curtea Veche
  • Lady Balasa Church
  • Antim Monastery
  • Great Synagogue
  • Patriarchal Cathedral: southwest of Uniri Park fountains. Very nice.
  • Stavropoleos Monastery
  • Radu Voda Monastery
  • Mihai Voda (Michael The Brave) Church: east of east end of Izvor park.
  • Biserica Alba (White Church)
  • Biserica Kretzulescu
  • Baratia Church
  • Probably another 50 churches ...


• Museums:
  • Muzeul National al Satului "Dimitrie Gusti" AKA "village museum".
    Outdoor traditional-architecture museum.
    Open summer M 0900-1700, TWRFSS 0900-1900.
    Metro station Aviatorilor, then longish walk west to the Arch and then a bit more NW to the entrance.
    Pleasant place, but not exciting.
  • National Museum of Art of Romania: 49-53 Calea Victoriei, open WRFSS 1000-1800. Northwest of metro station Piata Universitate. Nice, well worth visiting. Next to Museum of Romanian Art, also nice.
  • The Art Collections Museum: Calea Victoriei 111, open SSMTW 1000-1800. Northwest of metro station Piata Universitate.
  • Grigore Antipa National Museum of Natural History. Near Piata Victorei, not the huge concrete blocky building, but kind of across the street from that one. L20 admission. 3 floors. Nice, but better for kids.
  • Cotroceni Palace (Palatul Cotroceni): Official site.
    Boulevard Geniului 1-3, long walk east of metro station Politehnica, across street from south edge of Gradina Botanica Dimitrie Brandza.
    Or take 336 bus from/to Piata Universitate.
    Open TWRFSS 0930-1730. Church supposedly is open-entry, but there's elaborate security to get in.
    You must surrender a passport or ID document, get a badge, go through metal-detector, get escorted.
    Palace/museum is by guided tour of 60 or 100 minutes: info.
    Must reserve in advance, but I was able to get a reservation about 24 hours in advance of the visit.
    A little pricey at L55 each, almost nowhere to sit down during the tour, but lots of nice rooms and furniture and some nice art.
  • George Enescu Museum (Muzeul George Enescu)
    Sometimes they have small concerts in the museum, too.
  • National Military Museum Bucharest
  • Muzeul National al Aviatiei Romane: a bit hard to get to, and outdoor planes decaying.
  • Muzeul National de Istorie a Romaniei: history museum. On west side of Old Town. Surprisingly nice.
  • Bucharest Municipal Museum: SW corner of Piati Universitate. Open WRFSS 1000-1800.
  • Muzeul George Severeanu
  • K. H. Zambaccian Museum
  • Muzeul Theodor Aman
  • National Museum of Contemporary Art. Somewhere behind Palace of Parliament, but the area is pretty desolate, and with a long hot walk we still couldn't find the museum. Skip it.
  • MARe / Muzeul de Arta Recenta
  • Muzeul Micul Paris: small, antiques, etc.
  • Ligia and Pompiliu Macovei Art Collection
  • Muzeul CFR: railway and model train museum.
  • Casa Experimentelor: kid's science museum.
  • Museum of Senses Bucharest
  • Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman)


• Buildings:
  • Palace of Parliament (Palatul Poporului).
    Open summer 0900-1700, winter 1000-1600.
    Palace of Parliament - Bucharest International Conference Centre
    Go to metro station Izvor and then walk south through Izvor park, then SW onto Izvor street.
    Ticket office is within the "Constantin Brancusi" Exhibition Hall 2-4, Izvor Street.
    Bring your passport or ID card; you will not be admitted without it.
    Guided tours only, and there are limits on number of visitors per group.
    Building is big but boring: lots of marble and chandeliers and huge rooms, but almost no art, no interesting furniture. No cafes anywhere in the area, too. Skip it.
  • Ceausescu Mansion
  • CEC Palace
    On west side of Old Town, across from Romanian History Museum. Now a bank building, I think. Reservation needed to get inside.
  • Palatul Regal / Royal Palace
    (one wing of this is the National Museum of Art of Romania ?)
  • Biblioteca Centrala Universitara


• To do:
  • Cismigiu Gardens
  • Herastrau Park
  • The Botanical Garden (Gradina Botanica Dimitrie Brandza). East of metro station Politehnica, southest of metro station Grozavesti. Open summer 0800-2000, winter 0900-1700.
  • Macca Villacrosse Passage: full of hookah bars. On west side of Old Town.
  • National Arena Stadium Bucharest: football, concerts, etc.
  • Sala Palatului: big concert/event place, gets mixed reviews.
  • Parcul Tei: park and amusement park.
  • AFI Palace Cotroceni: huge shopping mall with ice-skating rink, lots of stuff for children. South and southwest of metro station Politehnica. Open SunMTWR 1000-2200, FSat 1000-2300.
  • Park Lake Mall: nice shopping mall.
  • Baneasa Shopping City
  • Mega Mall
  • Lighted fountains: Piata Unirii, across from Piata Unirii mall, a little SW of it. 2130 to 2230 at least, I think, in summer. Not sure.


• Music / theater:
  • Romanian Athenaeum (Ateneul Roman) concert hall
  • Filarmonica George Enescu
  • Bucharest National Opera
  • National Theatre (TNB or NTB): at Piata Universitate.
  • Odeon theatre (Teatrul Odeon): small, cozy theater.
  • Bulandra Theatre
  • Teatrul Metropolis
  • Teatrul Nottara
  • Tandarica Theatre


• Transport:
  • Airport: Henri Coanda International Airport (OTP; formerly Bucharest Otopeni International Airport) is outside city to the north.
    [There is a second airport, Aurel Vlaicu Airport, which doesn't do scheduled passenger traffic.]
  • Getting from airport to Bucharest Nord train station (which is pretty close to city center, on NW side of city center):
    CFR shuttle bus (0530-2100) from terminal to airport train station, then train to Nord station; combined ticket for bus and train.
    Ground transportation
    780 (0500-2300) express bus: bus
    
  • Getting from airport to city center:
    783 (24-hour) or 784 express bus: bus
    
  • Metro: runs 0500-2300, but there are night buses too ?
    STB
    There is an underground metro, trams (run on rails), buses, and tram-buses (powered from overhead wires).
    There is a paper ticket (L20 for 10 trips), but it only works in the metro.
    I think there is a plastic 15-trip card costs 30 Leu (€6) first time you buy it, 25 Leu (€5) to recharge with another 15 trips, and works in everything ?
    Maps: STB
    mapa-metro's "Bucharest Metro"
    Metrorex
    
    Romania Insider's "The essentials to get around the Bucharest metro system"
    
  • We have relatives in Fieni (map), so:
    

    • Trains:
      
      Train to Targoviste (better for Fieni) or Ploiesti (trains more frequent and faster).
      
      Train through Targoviste and Fieni finishes at Pietrosita. Bucharest Nord to Fieni takes 2 h 35 min.
      
      The route from Targoviste to Bucharest is served daily by 12 trains leaving from from the station of Tirgoviste and arriving at the stations of Bucuresti Nord, Bucuresti Baneasa, Bucuresti Obor. The average journey duration is 2 h 20 min. The first train leaves at 3:47am. The last one is at 5:32pm.
      
      You can get to Targoviste both by train and by bus; buses are very frequent, leaving every half hour from Bucharest, but they might be uncomfortable. It's probably better to use one of the four Accelerat-type trains linking Bucharest with Targoviste; you can check timetables on Informatica Feroviara (write "Bucuresti Nord" in the "From" field and "Tirgoviste", not Targoviste, in the "To" field).
      
      
    • Buses:
      
      Grup ATYC operates a bus from Bucharest to Targoviste hourly, to Fieni 3x daily (leave approx 1100, 1600, 1830).
      
      Tickets cost €3 - 4 and the journey takes 1 h 37 min to Targoviste, 2 h 5 min to Fieni.
      
      Grup ATYC stations in Bucharest are: Autogara IDM Basarab Kennedy (Str. Orhideelor 35 Bucharest Romania 010953) and Calea Grivitei Banca Romaneasca (Calea Grivitei 148 Bucuresti Rumania). Both stations are near Nord train station; Calea Grivitei seems closer to the station.
      
      Buses from Fieni to Bucharest: leave 7, 8, 10, 1, 3 ?
    
    


• Tourist Info: 27 Carol I Boulevard, a bit away from center, near Piata CA Rosetti.
• Bucharest Tourist Info: Cale Victoriei 68-70, at corner of Piata Revolutiei.
• Tourist Information Office: at Piata Universitatii, inside the metro station, seems to be open 1000-1800.
• Currency: about 4 Leu per Euro.

Bulgaria

Croatia

Istanbul

• e-Visa: $50 for US citizen, free/exempt for EU citizen.
  
  
• COVID tracking:
  
  First get an HES, then get an Istanbulkart, then link them together to get a QR code ?
  But Skyscanner says HES is only for citizens and residents.
  From someone on reddit 9/2021:
  "The health form tourists have to apply on entering Turkey, automatically issues them an HES code, for use in entering malls and linking it with Istanbulkart. By the law, tourists are not required to have a HES code and should be able to attend all venues just by showing their stamped passport - not a HES code. But since people at the check points are not aware of this, it seems more practical for tourists to get such a code for their own peace of mind."
  
  yabnagee's "How to Get a HES Code and Link an Istanbulkart"
  
  I think the steps are:

  1. [Tourists] In 3 days before arriving, get an HES via Entrance Form site. Maybe best to use Chrome browser; for some reason, Firefox didn't display bar-code, and site wouldn't let me submit a new request through Chrome. Second person's request through Chrome worked fine.
  2. Arrive in the airport.
  3. [Citizens and residents] Get an HES. Either download Hayat Eve Sigar app, or go to site ? But a signature or login is required ?
  4. Buy an Istanbulkart (one for each person) in the airport. Usually available at news-stands. [We ended up rushing through the airport and not buying a card there. Didn't need it or the QR code to take the Havaist bus. Bought a card later near Taksim Square. Metro at Taksim Square and ferry dock at Eminonu both have information offices where they will link card to HES for you.]
  5. On your phone, go to this site to link HES code to Istanbulkart. That site actually will request the number of the Istanbulkart, the number of your passport, your HES code, and other information. You will get a QR code that you can use to get onto transit and into shopping malls. YouTube video
  6. Keep the QR code on your phone, ready to display. But only the Istanbulkart is needed to get on the Metro.
  
  
• Exchange rate: about 10 TRY (TL, lira) per 1 Euro in 2021.
  
  
• Many ATMs in the airport want to charge a 10% (!) fee to get cash. The ATMs at BBVA bank in airport (and elsewhere in town) charged 5%.
  
  
• AC outlets: same as Spain.
  
  
• I had heard that VPNs don't work in Turkey, but Windscribe/OpenVPN worked on my laptop, and Windscribe/Wireguard worked on my phone.
  
  
• Among the instructions in our AirBNB apartment: don't drink the tap water.
  
  
• Maps:
  • MAPaPLAN old town
  • MAPaPLAN metro, tram, and metro-bus lines
  • MAPaPLAN old town tourist attractions
  • PlanetWare
  • Istanbul Rapid Transit map
  • Google map
  
  
• Basic Turkish Phrases for Tourists
  
  
• Museums:
  • Museum Pass Istanbul: see up to 13 museums and sites in 5 days for 360 TL, and skip ticket lines, and maybe get discounts at other museums. [Since Topkapi alone costs 150 TL, others 20-70 each, this is a possibly-reasonable deal. We didn't get to enough museums to make it pay for us, but we did skip a couple of ticket lines.] Buy at any of about 10 major museums. Buy from machine with credit-card only; buy at counter otherwise.
    Museum Pass covers these:
    • Topkapi Palace Museum. Huge and very nice, indoor and outdoor.
    • Topkapi Palace Harem.
    • Istanbul Archaeological Museums. Three buildings in one location, fairly nice.
    • Turkish and Islamic Art Museum and Ethnographic Museum next door.
    • Galata Tower (or nice views from Galata Konak Cafe nearby)
    • Galata Mevlevi House Museum
    • Rumeli Fortress museum
    • Hagia Irene (empty shell of a building, don't bother)
    • Great Palace Mosaics museum
    • Museum of the History of Science and Technology in Islam (boring, IMO)
  • In Galata: Pera Museum. Paintings, tools.
  • In Galata near Taksim Square: French Institute. Art exhibits. Free.
  • In Galata at Taksim Square: Cumhuriyet Art Gallery of Taksim. At Istiklal where it enters Taksim Square.
  • In Galata: Beyoglu Municipal Art Gallery. Istiklal Caddesi no 217.
  • More: Art Venues.
  • In Dolapdere 1 km NW of Taksim Square: Arter Gallery. Art exhibits, building, etc. Free on Thursdays. Free shuttle bus from Taksim metro station.
  • Istanbul Modern (modern Turkish art). Was at T1 Tophane stop, but 9/2021 under construction, moved to Asmalimescit Mahallesi, Mesrutiyet Caddesi No. 99, Beyoglu (somewhat near Sisphane metro stop).
  • In SW corner of Golden Horn district, in Haskoy: Rahmi M. Koc Industrial Museum. Submarine, cars, plane, ferry, more. Bus stop for 36T, 38T, 47.
  • In Western District: Turkuazoo (aquarium inside Forum Istanbul shopping mall). Kartaltepe-Kocatepe station on M1 metro, near M1A-M1B fork.
  
  
• Churches:
  • Hagia Sophia mosque; free. Very nice.
  • Sultanahmet (Blue) mosque; free. Disappointing.
  • Chora Church / Church of St Saviour in Chora / Kariye Museum. Mosaics etc. 30 TL.
  • Patriarchate of Constantinople / Patriarchal Church of St George.
  • St Stephen Church
  • Suleymaniye Mosque. Free.
  • Zeyrek Mosque. Free. In a rough neighborhood.
  • In Galata at Taksim Square: Hagia Triada Orthodox Church.
  • In Galata near Galatasaray Square: S. Antonio di Padova Catholic Church.
  • Rustem Pasa Mosque (maybe under renovation). In Tahtakale shopping district; Hasircilar Caddesi.
  • Fatih Mosque. Big market nearby on Wednesdays.
  • Kucuk Ayasofya Camii (Church of the Saints Sergius and Bacchus).
  • Mihrimah Sultan Camii (mosque).
  • Sehzade Mehmet Mosque. At Grand Bazaar.
  • Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque.
  • Eyup Sultan Mosque. A very holy place for Muslims. Busy on weekends. In Eyup. Maybe take M1 to Bayrampasa stop and walk (or take A11 bus) up Maltepe Caddesi / Eyup Sultan Blvd ?
  
  
• Monuments etc:
  • Golden Gate and Yedikule Fortress.
  • Basilica Cistern. 20 TL.
  • Theodosius Cistern; free.
  • Hippodrome.
  • Off NE corner of Galata, on waterfront: Dolmabahce Palace. Closed Mondays and Thursdays ? No photography inside. 200 TL for palace and harem and art museum. Walk from Kabatas tram stop. We walked our legs off at this place. Well worth seeing. Maybe skip the harem, it's a bit repetitive.
  • On Asian side: Beylerbeyi Palace. Closed Mondays and Thursdays ? No photos allowed inside. Near first Bosphorus bridge, NE of it. We took the ferry to Uskadar and then jumped on the first bus that said "Beylerbeyi"; through tunnel, past bus stop "Tunel", next one is the palace, can't miss it. Ferry labeled "Beylerbeyi" runs only a couple of (inconvenient) times per day. Palace and gardens are nice, but a bit redundant after seeing Dolmabahce Palace.
  • Palace of the Porphyrogenitus ?
  • Sirkeci railway station (now a Metro station).
  • Hunkar Kasri pavilion; enter via a long enclosed ramp behind the Yeni Cami (New Mosque). In Adana. Only open when there are exhibits in entranceway ?
  • SALT Galata (Bankalar Caddesi 11) and SALT Beyoglu (Istiklal Caddesi 136) cultural centers.
  • Beyazit State Library near Grand Bazaar ?
  • In Beyoglu / Galata: Museum of Painting and Sculpture.
  
  
• Music:
  • Concert at the Serefiye (Theodosius) Cistern.
  • Istanbul State Symphony Orchestra
  • Sureyya Opera House, in Kadikoy.
  • Zorlu Performing Arts Center (PSM) in Zorlu Center mall, in Taksim/NewCity. Gayrettepe metro stop and then 7-minute walk.
  • Songkick
  • In Beyoglu: Borusan Music House. Istiklal Caddesi no 160A.
  
  
• To do:
  • Istiklal Caddesi pedestrian street. Start at Taksim Square and then walk downhill.
  • Ferry between the European and Asian sides of the city, about 20 minutes across the Bosphorus. Istanbul liners (ferries) are cheap, and you can pay with Istanbulkart. Municipal ferry company is IDO (Istanbul Seabuses) ? Other ferry companies are faster but more expensive ? We did trips from Eminonu to Uskadar and Kadikoy, and they were fun little trips.
  • Boat trip up to the Black Sea and back ?
  • Official Bosporus cruise from the state-run company Sehir Hatlari which offers a six-hour cruise for TRY25 (100+ minutes each way with a break of 2.5 hours at Anadoli Kavagi). From the Eminonu terminal immediately east of the Galata Bridge. In Anadoli Kavagi, walk up to the Yoros Kalesi, a strategic castle overlooking and controlling the entry to the Black Sea (crowded at weekends during summer months).
    I think this is another company: Turyol (schedule). The trip does not go all the way to the Black Sea, it stops south of it but with views from the castle ruins.
  • Walk on city walls on west side of old city; maybe start at Pazartekke tram station / Topkapi Gate.
  • Walk in Gulhane Park / Sogukcesme Street / Fountain of Sultan Ahmed III, next to Topkapi Palace. Quite nice park.
  • Walk on Divan Yolu Street / Yeniceriler Street. Grand Bazaar is just N of the midpoint.
  • In Galata: Taksim Square and then walk down Istiklal Street toward old city.
  • In Galata: from Galatasaray Square walk downhill on Cezayir Street.
  • Especially in autumn: Ataturk Arboretum (living tree museum) near the Black Sea coast, easily accessible by public buses from various locations in the city.
    directions
  • Full-day (15-hour) bus trip to Troy and nearby sites. Approx €90 per person.
  • Ferry to Princes' Islands. Very cheap, and comfortable, but consumes a lot of time. We took from Kabatas to Adalar, about 110 minutes each way (there are 4 intermediate stops). On Adalar, the electric-mini-bus circle tour of the island is nice, but if you get off halfway, you may have trouble finding a seat to get back on.
  • Kanyon mall: interesting design of the buildings.
  
  
• Football:
  • Besiktas (Vodafone Park, near N end of T1).
  • Galatasaray (TT Stadium, Seyrantepe stop on M2).
  • Fenerbahce (Sukru Saracoglu Stadium, Sogutlucesme stop at E end of metrobus line).
  • Tickets: Passo
  • From someone on reddit 9/2021:
    As it seems, very strict measures have been applied due to covid spread prevention by the turkish football federation, which practically makes it impossible for a foreigner to attend a football match this year.
    
    Apparently your passolig card has to be linked with your HES code, but this can only happen if the code shows that you are fully vaccinated with the official jab performed by a turkish authority. So tourists are automatically out of the question and even expats residing in Turkey won't be allowed unless they have taken the approved shots here and not at their home country.
  
  
• Transport:
  • Transit card: Istanbulkart. Typical routes: airport to Sultahnamet Square for 18 TRY. Normal bus/metro/tram fare: 4 TRY, then discount for next leg when you connect onto another. Used to be able to buy the card from yellow machines, but now you have to buy card at a news-stand. Initial cost of card is 12 TRY. Can top-up at yellow machines (no change given, the whole amount put in goes into the card). YouTube video
    
    We had trouble finding a place that sold the Istanbulkart. Some places didn't have it in stock. Eventually we were directed to a small supermarket a couple of blocks from Taksim Square where we bought it. Then back to info office in Taksim Square metro, where they connected it to our entry form / COVID tracking for us.
  • There are THREE airports:
    • "New" Istanbul Airport (AKA "Istanbul Havalimani"; site) is NW of city: code IST. on Wikipedia
    • Istanbul Ataturk Airport is in SW of city: code ISL. General aviation and cargo. Now being demolished ? on Wikipedia
    • Istanbul Sabiha Gokcen International Airport Airport is in SE of asian side of city: code SAW. Metro M4 is being extended to the airport ? on Wikipedia
  • Public bus from "New" airport: IETT.
  • Private bus from "New" airport to Sultahnamet Square: airport level -2, Havaist buses.
  • Metro M11 from "New" airport to Levent (Gayrettepe station, where you can connect to the M2): maybe complete in 2022 or 2023 ?
  • Havaist buses. Stop for Taksim is at/across from Point Hotel Taksim (map).
  • Havas airport shuttle departs from various points of the city from as early as 04:00.
  • Metro map
  • Huge international bus station: Esenler Otogar, about 10 km west of the city center.
  • Two types of big buses: private-run (pay cash), and govt IETT (use Istanbulkart or buy a ticket at a booth).
  • Private dolmus minivans: pay cash (usually 2 to 8 lira).
  • Metrobus: large bus that connects districts, special lanes, few stops.
  • Most bus lines operate from 6 AM to around midnight, although Metrobus and dolmus run 24 hours.
  • Major bus hub: Taksim Square. Also central station of the Metro.
  • "As a tourist, you are most likely to use the tram and the metro in the Sultanahmet and Taksim area since there are no bus lines operating in the Sultanahmet area any more."
  • Eight metro lines. I think Istanbulkart works on metro, or you can buy a token for 5 TRY.
  • Four tram lines. I think Istanbulkart works on trams.
  • Riding just to watch the scenery out of the window:
    "M1, T1, T4, T5, and Marmaray are above ground metro lines, everything else is significantly underground. I recommend T4 and T5 ... Also Metrobus is above ground, and if you go midday you'll probably get a seat, and it is a wild ride, with great views."
  • "For sightseeing, the T2 nostalgic tram that runs the entirety of the Istiklal street is a must. Just get on at the Taksim station at the start and ride it all the way to Tunel / Galata Tower."
  
  
• Only big supermarket near old city: in Historia Mall, between M1 stops Aksaray and Emniyet-Fatih, or go to public bus stop Iskenderpasa. Mall is open 10:00 - 22:00.
  
• Beyoglu: "There's a medium-sized Carrefour in Cihangir here"
  
• "The quickest large supermarket to get to from Taksim is probably the MMM Migros at Cevahir AVM (two stops on M2 metro)."
  
  
• Tourist Info offices: Sirkeci Train Station (outside); next to Ataturk Kultur Merkezi civic center / opera house (map) at SE corner of Taksim Square. Couldn't find any anywhere else. Tourism Information Offices
  
  
• Where to stay ? I favor not too far from Taksim Square, downhill from it ?
  The Nomadvisor's "Where to Stay in Istanbul: 12 Best Areas"
  
• Street cats: it is possible to get rabies from a bite by a street cat, although most cats are vaccinated. Unlikely to get rabies from a scratch. Once you have disease symptoms it is too late for treatment. Most hospitals do not have rabies vaccine on hand. If you decide to get it, Haseki Sultan in Fatih definitely has it. Haseki Sultan, Haseki Egitim ve Arastirma Hst., 34096 Fatih/Istanbul.
  
• Sanitas facilities (we have Sanitas insurance):
  info at sanitastravel.com, +90 535 250 95 75.
  sanitastravel - Liv Hospital Istanbul (map).
  
• Medical tourism: we had a good experience with cosmetic and hair procedures at "Medicine Hospital" in Bagcilar (on Hoca Ahmet Yesevi Caddesi).
  

Athens

• "A 30 euro ticket gives you entry to the Acropolis (including the Parthenon and the Theatre of Dionysus), Kerameikos, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, Roman Agora, Ancient Agora, and Hadrian's Library, as well as Aristotle's Lyceum which is a little further away next to the Byzantine and Christian Museum." Normal ticket to Acropolis/Parthenon/Dionysus alone is €20. The 30 euro ticket is good for 5 days, but does not allow reentry to a previously visited site. Can't buy it at all sites; buy it at Acropolis and start there.
• Athens Card.
  Doesn't seem like a very good deal, to me.


• The Acropolis. A hill with multiple things on it.
  wikitravel's "Athens/Acropolis"
  "There are two entrances, the lesser-used one starting near the new Acropolis Museum and allowing you to climb up through the Theatre of Dionysus, but this is a little bit more physically taxing as the climb can get steep."
  Open summer MTWRFS 0800-1900, Sun 0800-1500. Winter 0800-sunset.
  • Parthenon: temple.
  • Temple of Athena Nike.
  • Temple of Hephaestus.
  • Erectheion.
  • Propylea: gateway.
  • Odeon of Herodes Atticus: theater.
  • Theatre of Dionysis.
  • New Acropolis Museum
    Open summer M 0800-1600, TWRSS 0800-2000, F 0800-2200. Winter MTWR 0900-1700, F 0900-2200, SS 0900-2000.
• Roman Agora/Roman Forum.
• Ancient Agora.
• Syntagma Square. Parliament building and the newly-restored Grande Bretagne Hotel. Also, catch the changing of the (only four ?) guards in front of the Parliament every hour on the hour.
• Kerameikos: ancient cemetery.
• Temple of Olympian Zeus (ruins).
• Panathinaiko Stadium: housed the first modern day Olympic Games of 1896.


• Museums:
  • Benaki Museum: Greek art and culture.
  • Greek National Gallery (Alexandros Soutzos Museum)
  • National Archaeological Museum of Athens


• Churches:
  • Metropolitan Cathedral of Athens.
  • Agia Irini Church.
  • Church of St. Panteleimon.
  • Sotira Lykodimou Church (Russian Church).
  • "Many Greek Orthodox churches at Piraeus. The 3 biggest are Saint Nicholas, Saint Spyridon and Holy Trinity."


• Music:
  • Athens Concert Hall (Megaron Musikis)
  • National Theater
  • Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (opera and ballet)


• To do:
  • Lycabettus Hill: great views.
  • Philopappos Hill / Mars Hill: great views. Path leading up from Acropolis, along side of Parthenon. Wear good shoes, and maybe don't go on a windy day. Prison of Socrates.
  • "Archeological walk which starts at Vasilisis Amalias Street, passes in front of the New Acropolis Museum, Acropolis, Herodion Theatre, Thiseio (Apostolou Pavlou Str), Ermou Street and ends at the popular area of Kerameikos (Gkazi) where numerous bars and clubs are located. Pleasant walking can also be had in Plaka, especially its upper reaches, and in much of Kolonaki, and the National Garden can provide a welcome respite from the heat and noise of the city center."
  • Beginning of Ifaistou St, next to Monastiraki station, street is lined with second-hand and surplus shops of every description.
  • Flea Market is held on Sunday mornings in Plateia Avissinia at the western end of Ifaistou St.
  • National Gardens, behind the Parliament building.
  • "Ermou Street, an approximately one-kilometre-long pedestrian road connecting Syntagma Square to Monastiraki ... in the top five most expensive shopping streets in Europe ..."
  • "Dionysiou Areopagitou Street has been pedestrianised, forming a scenic route. The route starts from the Temple of Olympian Zeus at Vasilissis Olgas Avenue, continues under the southern slopes of the Acropolis near Plaka, and finishes just beyond the Temple of Hephaestus in Thiseio."


• Football:
  • Olympiacos
  • Panathinaikos
  • A.E.K. Athens
  • Athens Olympic Stadium (OAKA)


• Transport:
  • Athens Transport's "Athens Transport information in English"
  • Athens Transport's "Athens Transport Tickets and Cards"
  • Livin'Lovin's "Strikes & Work stoppages in Greece"


• Eat: souvlaki (grilled kebab in pita bread), koulouri (sesame-seed bread ring), galaktoboureko (custard-filled pastry), tyropitta (cheese pie).
• Drink: frappe (cold coffee).

Milan

• Google map
• Metro map


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• There is a tourism tax for those renting an apartment.
  
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Palermo

• Tourist Info offices:
  Small one inside Theater Politeama, open 0900-1300.
  Big one at Piazza Bellini open 0900-1900 ?
  Half a dozen others around the city.


• Museums and buildings:
  • Museo archeologico regionale "Antonino Salinas" (admission free)
  • Zisa palace
  • Cuba palace
  • Palazzo dei Normanni
    Only two big rooms, but the chapel is absolutely spectacular, other room is full of religious art.
    €10 admission.
  • Palazzo Natoli
  • Palazzo Chiaramonte
    Guided tours only, and all the interesting parts were closed for restoration when I was there.
  • Palazzo Abatellis
  • Palazzo Ajutamicristo.
    I was there on a free day, but I think I saw everything. Very disappointing, just a ground-floor sculpture exhibition.
  • Palazzina Cinese
  • Palazzo Asmundo
    Visit by appointment only, when I was there.
  • Palazzo Riso (Museo d'Arte Contemporanea della Sicilia)
    Often closed for private events, all I could see was ground floor for €3, very disappointing, skip it.
  • Palazzo Mirto
    Admission €6.
    Quite nice; don't miss it.
  • GAM (Civica Galleria d'Arte Moderna Empedocle Restivo)
    Open 0930-1830, closed Mondays, €7, free first Sunday of month.
    I found it nice but not great.
  • Regional Gallery (Galleria Regionale della Sicilia)
    €8.
  • Some museums are free on first Sunday of the month: get printed list at Tourist Info.


• Churches etc:
  • Cattedrale de Palermo
  • The Gesu Church
  • San Giovanni degli Eremiti (open MTWRFS 0900-1900; admission €6)
  • Cappella Palatina (Open MTWRF 0900-1145 and 1500-1645, Sat 0900-1145, Sun 0900-0945 and 1200-1245)
  • Church of San Giovanni dei Lebbrosi
  • Chiesa della Martorana (AKA Santa Maria dell'Ammiraglio AKA St Mary of the Admiral)
  • San Cataldo
  • Santa Maria della Gancia
  • Santa Caterina
  • Santa Maria della Catena
  • San Domenico
  • San Giuseppe dei Teatini
  • Oratorio di San Lorenzo
  • Oratorio del Rosario
  • Santa Teresa alla Kalsa
  • Santa Maria dello Spasimo
  • San Francesco di Assisi
  • Church of the Magione (AKA Church of the Holy Trinity)
  • Catacombe dei Cappuccini (open 0900-1200 and 1500-1800; admission €3)


• Music:
  • Teatro Massimo
  • Teatro Politeama
  • Fondazione The Brass Group


• To do:
  • Mount Pellegrino. Take 812 bus (30-35 minutes) to top. Bus runs every 1.5 hours or so; check timetable. But the end of the bus line is not the top of the hill. It stops at a church surrounded by trinket shops and a cafe or two, with no good views of anything. The bus you came on will leave again in 20 minutes, and the next one down will be 2 hours after you arrived. I wasn't in the mood to walk to the top, so I don't know how good it is up there.
  • Monte Gallo.
  • Mondello (beach and clubs).
  • Sferracavallo (great restaurants).
  • Sailboat cruise.
  • Football: Unione Sportiva Citta di Palermo SpAhtd.
    Stadium is Stadio Renzo Barbera, address Viale del Fante 11.
    Take 101 or 106 bus (101 is more frequent) up Via della Liberta to Piazza Giovanni Paolo II or stadium.
    Go early, buses may be jammed.
    Buy ticket ahead of time, maybe at official store at Maqueda 399 about 3 blocks toward center from Theater Massimo. You will have to show ID so your name can be put on the ticket, and show same ID at the stadium. Try to get a seat under the roof, in the shade; the sun is strong here.
    Cheapest ticket about €6.


• Transport:
  • Local buses and trams: AMAT
    Maybe best to get "Biglietto Giornaliero MultiDay 7 giorni": unlimited travel for 7 days for €16.80.
    Can't pay on the bus; have to buy a ticket somewhere else before boarding.
    Free "Centro Storico" bus loops through and around the center, 0635-2100, every 14 minutes or so.
  • Local trains: Palermo metropolitan railway service
  • Shuttle bus to/from airport: getbybus's "Airport Bus Palermo"
    Stop at Piazza Castelnuovo is announced as "Politeama".
  • Train to airport.
  • Long-distance buses: AST
  • Trains.


• Trips out of the city:
  
  
  • Monreale. Town 8 KM west of Palermo. Cathedral and cloisters.
    
    Takes about 50 minutes to get there on AST bus from Palermo. AST bus (726, I think) leaves across piazza from central train station, Piazza Giulio Cesare / Via Roma. €3 round-trip.
    
    Also could take AMAT bus 389 from Piazza Independencia. Probably takes longer than AST bus.
    
    Get bus schedules and map of Monreale from Tourist Info. Each bus goes about every 60 to 90 minutes.
    
    Traffic was horrible, which is why 8 KM takes 50 minutes or so. AST bus stopped well away from the cathedral; a bit hard to find the way across town. Cathedral is closed from about 12:45 to 2:30 each day. The cathedral was very nice, but there's nothing else in town other than cafes and such. I guess I'm glad I went, but it was a lot of time for a moderately-good experience.
    
    
  • Bagheria. Town east of Palermo.
    
    Go there by train (about 15 minutes one-way). From central station, trains leave in cycles, it seems: local train, 10 minutes later an express train, then 30-40 minutes to next local train, repeat. €2.50 each way. Validate ticket before getting on train.
    
    Get maps before going (Palermo Tourist Info doesn't have any). No maps at the Bagheria station, half the public maps around town are vandalized, signs outside the station are backwards, and the place is 10x bigger than I expected. Many villas/churches were closed or half-closed when I was there.
    
    
    • Villa Palagonia (Villa dei Mostri). €6 and the buildings were closed when I was there.
    • Museo Guttuso (modern art). €6. To get there from train station: come out of front door of station, turn right, go back across train tracks, turn left, go a couple of blocks.
    
    
    
  • Catania. On east coast of island, almost as far as you can get from Palermo.
    Coastal train that goes south takes about 4 hours; more direct train (central ?) takes about 3 hours. I'm told there's no bar-car on the train; take your own food and drink.
    
    
  • Mount Etna. Just north of Catania.
    
    
  • Stromboli Volcano, on an island north of Sicily.
    
    
  We Are Palermo's "Places You Should Visit Around Palermo"
  


• Mailing postcards:
  Stamp €1.30 to rest of EU, about €2.20-2.55 to USA.
  No mailboxes or mailslots at Post Offices; have to wait in line, or find a box on the street.
  Careful: If you buy a "GPS" stamp at a postcard shop, it can only go in a yellow GPS mailbox. If you buy a normal stamp at a tabacchi or post office, it has to go in a red mailbox. Not sure if there are green mailboxes, and what goes in them. I put a "GPS" stamped postcard in a red mailbox, was told it would be thrown away, but it did arrive in Spain about 5 weeks later.

Malta

• Before you arrive: buy tickets for the Hypogeum, if you want to go there.
• Tourist Info offices: Triton Fountain, MUZA, Valletta Waterfront (Pinto Wharf), Inquisitor's Palace / Main Gate Street / Birgu, Plaza Commercial Centre / Sliema.
• There is a Maltese Liri currency, at about 1 Liri to €2.3.


• Museums:
  • Cathedral Museum.
  • Grandmaster's Palace and Armoury / Palace of the Grand Masters.
    Near Republic Square. €10 admission.
    Pleasant, but best part is that €10 ticket includes admission to MUZA.
  • National Library. 36 Old Treasury Street, at Republic Square. Need photo ID to get in.
  • Casa Rocca Piccola.
    74 Republic Street. MTWRFSat 1000-1700.
    Lots of nice art and historic stuff and furniture, pretty interesting.
  • National Museum of Fine Art. (National Community Art Museum, MUZA ?) Merchants St at Melita St, Auberge d'Italie. Large and most of it quite nice. Some nice modern art, some not-nice modern art, and plenty of fine art from 1600-1900 or so.
  • Lascaris War Rooms.


• Churches etc:
  • St. John's Co-Cathedral. MTWRF 0930-1600, Sat 0930-1230.
    Entrance is through the Carappechia Annex on Republic Street between St John's Street and St Lucy Street.
    Quite nice; don't miss it !
  • Tarxien Temples. In Tarxien, just S of Valletta / SW of Three Cities.
  • Hal Saflieni Hypogeum. In Tarxien, just S of Valletta / SW of Three Cities.
    Buy tickets online in advance. Admission €20. When we were in Malta, it was closed Tues and Wed, and all other days of our stay had no tickets available. So buy before you arrive.
  • Parrocca San Pawl Nawfragu. 74 St Paul St.
  • Shrine of Our Lady of Mount Carmel / Madonna tal-Karmnu Our Lady of Mount Carmel. Old Mint Street, in Birgu.
  • St. Catherine of Italy. Victory Square.
  • Our Lady of Victories Church. Victory Square.
  • St. Francis' Church Valletta.
  • St. Lawrence's Church, in Birgu.
  • Saint Publius Church, in Floriana.
  • Stella Maris Church Sliema.
  • Saint Patrick's Church, in Sliema.
  • St Augustine Church & Priory.
  • Santu Wistin, in Valletta old city.
  • San Girgor il-Kbir St. Gregory the Great, in Sliema.


• Sites etc:
  • Upper Barrakka Gardens.
  • Fort St. Elmo.
  • St. James Cavalier fortress. Theater, cinema, etc.
  • St. Barbara Bastion.
  • St George's Square: colored water fountain.
  • Fort Manoel. Open once a month ?
  • Is-Suq Tal-Belt Valletta Food Market. Just about the only grocery store inside the old town.


• Music and theater:
  • Manoel Theatre.
  • Mediterranean Conference Centre (MCC).
  • Robert Samut Hall, in Floriana.


• To do:
  • Nightlife: in Paceville, N end of St Julian's, S side of St George's Bay.
  • Free walking tours.
  • Wikipedia's "Maltese Premier League"
  • Melita FC ? Also a team in Sliema.


• Transport:
  • Airport (MLA) is in Luqa, Malta. Best bus to Valletta is X4, followed by X1, then 71, 72, 73. X4 bus stops just long enough to pick up people; don't miss it.
  • Buses: Malta Public Transport
    Maybe buy Tallinja 12-single-day-journeys card for €15. Can be shared. Not valid on the ferries to the towns just across the water from Valletta: Sliema, and the Three Cities, despite what web sites say.
  • Ferry from Three Cities back to Valletta: ticket includes ticket to the huge lift up to Upper Barraka Gardens.


• Day-trips out of the city:
  • Mellieha: on NE side near NW corner of island. Great beaches, Mellieha Parish Church.
  • Golden Bay: on W side near NW corner of island, great beach.
  • Mdina: in center of island, next to town of Rabat. Fortress city.
    Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Paul / Monsateru ta' San Pietru (MTWRF 0930-1630, Sat 0930-1530), Carmelite Priory, Palazzo Falson Historic House Museum, Church St. Agatha.
    Buses 50 and 51 and maybe more from Valletta. Stop to get off is not called "Mdina", it's called "Is-Saqqajja". But the bus turns in and then 90% or more of the riders will get off there, it's pretty obvious.
    Cathedral, Cathedral Museum, and Carmelite Priory are quite nice, don't miss them.
  • Rabat: Gozo Cathedral ?
  • Mosta: in center of island and a little N.
    Mosta Dome (Rotunda). Open MTWRF 0930-1730, Sat 0930-1630, Sun 1200-1630.
  • Hagar Qim and Mnajdra: on SW side of island. Stone-age temples.
  • Ferry to Gozo ? Church of St. John The Baptist in Xewkija, Ta' Pinu National Shrine in Gharb, St. George's Basilica in Victoria, The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Victoria, Xaghra Parish Church in Xaghra.

Nice

• Museums:
  • Parc Phoenix. Museum of Asian art, and flower and animal park. Near airport.
  • Musee Chagall. Not easy to get to, have to walk uphill from near main train station. Avenue du Docteur Menard. Closed Tuesdays.
  • Musee Matisse. MWRFSS 1000-1600.
  • Musee et Site Archeologiques de Cimiez. Free.
  • Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art (MAMAC). Closed in 2024.
  • Musee des Beaux-Arts (AKA Jules Cheret Fine Arts Museum). Closed Mondays. 33 avenue des Baumettes. Tramway L2 : Centre Universitaire Mediterraneen.
  • Musee Massena. Not at Place Massena; half a kilometer W of there, intersection of Rue de Rivoli and Promenade des Anglais.
  • Museum of Natural History. 60 Bd Risso. Around corner from N corner of Place Garibaldi. Open 1000-1230 and 1330 to 1800. Tiny. €3.50 admission.
  • Naval Museum.
  • Palais Lascaris.


• Churches etc:
  • Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate: quite nice, in old town.
  • Basilique Notre Dame: unimpressive, near main train station.
  • Greek orthodox church Saint Spyridon, in middle of Carabacel district, 2 Av. Desambrois, near intersection of Bd Debouchage and Bd Carabacel.
  • Russian orthodox cathedral Saint Nicolas, a longish walk W of main train station, off Bd du Tzarewitch, Av Nicholas II.
  • Church Francisca Paul Charitas (something like that), in old town.
  • Several other churches in old town.


• Music and theater:
  • Nice Jazz Festival
  • Opera de Nice
  • Concerts in Basilica of Notre Dame de Nice. Some are "Heures Musicales de Notre Dame".


• To do:
  • Parc Phoenix botanical garden. Close to airport.
  • Cliff Walk: east past old port, from Coco Beach, and towards Monaco.
  • Beaches: very stony. Better beaches in towns such as Villefranche-sur-Mer (TAM 100 bus), Antibes, and Cannes.
  • Mont Boron: views of Nice.
  • Football: OGC Nice plays at Allianz Riviera / Stade de Nice.
  • Shopping: Avenue Jean Medecin.
  • French Riviera Villefranche Bay Snorkeling Tour. 2 hours, about €40.
  • Christmas Market, in December.


• Transport:
  • Airport (code NCE).
    Tram Line 2 between the airport and Nice Centre.
    If you need to get to tram Line 1, get off line 2 at Jean Medicin stop and go up to street level and around corner to T1 stop.
    Buy tickets at airport for €10 each, and save them, I think they're valid for the return too.
    Wandering Carol's "Easy Ways to Get From Nice Airport to City Centre"
  • From Barcelona by train: minimum 9 hours, two connections.
  • From Barcelona by bus: minimum 9.5 hours.
  • Nice main Train Station (Gare de Nice-Ville, AKA Gare Thiers).
  • Local tram system. Runs 0430 to 2400.
  • Local bus system: Lignes d'Azur. Most buses (except airport express and night buses) stop running at 2000.
  • An inter-urban network, the TAM (Transport Alpes-Maritimes) connects all the Eastern Riviera towns, and in Nice overlaps with local buses.
  • There are "multi-10" tickets (10 journeys) for €17 plus €2 for the card. Several persons can travel on the same "multi-10" ticket if they stamp the ticket once per person when starting the journey. You have to validate your ticket (only once even for multiple people) again when changing bus.
  • SNCF rail service also links all the main coastal towns.


• Day-trips out of the city:
  • Monaco. High-speed train takes only 20-25 minutes; Nice-Ville station to Monte Carlo station; about €20 one-way. Local train is about €6 one-way, takes maybe 35 minutes.
  • Menton, a town east of Monaco. Nice place, nice pedestrian street and lots of shops. Train going there at 1230 was crowded; we were lucky to get seats. Train going is listed by final destination: Vintmilles Italy (spelled wrong here). Train home is listed by final destination: Cannes or Grasse. Trains go about every 30 minutes. Fare about €6.50.
  • Train experience through the Alps. €110 or so. Starts early: 0715.
  • Bus tour of villages in the mountains, and more. €95. https://www.civitatis.com/en/nice/countryside-tour/#details They say pickup is at 0900, but actually ours was at 0820 ! Only 4 passengers in a van that could hold maybe 10, which was nice. Highlight of the trip for me was St Paul de Vence, full of art galleries. Trip was listed as 9 hours long, but guide dropped us off at 5:00; it was okay because we'd had enough by then anyway.
  • Bus tour of villages on the sea, and more. €95. https://www.civitatis.com/en/nice/french-riviera-tour/#details They say pickup is at 0900, but actually ours was at 0820 ! Guide was good, but we spent a lot of time in traffic. Only 4 passengers in a van that could hold maybe 10, which was nice. Highlight of the trip for me was St Paul de Vence, full of art galleries. Trip was listed as 9 hours long, but guide dumped us out in Nice at 4:40 and told us to go get dinner; it was okay because we'd had enough by then anyway.
  
  
• Food:
  "Socca", a charcoal-grilled chickpea and olive oil crepe generously sprinkled with black pepper.
  "Pan Bagnat" sandwich, which is basically a salade nicoise stuffed in an olive-oil-soaked round crusty bread.
  Farcis nicois is a dish made from vegetables stuffed with a mixture of breadcrumbs, meat, and herbs.


• Tourist Info Offices
  Av Thiers, Gare SNCF - 06000 Nice (at main train station).
  info.nice@nicecotedazurtourisme.com
  5 Promenade des Anglais 06000 Nice (W of intersection with Av de Verdun).

Toulouse

• An expensive place. Maybe 30% more expensive than Barcelona ?


• Museums:
  • Hotel d'Assezat / Fondation Bemberg Musee
    Private museum, not included in free-first-Sunday.
    Some nice art and antiques, and some nice big-name paintings (Picasso, Degas, etc). But a bit overpriced at €8 admission, maybe skip it.
  • Musee Les Augustins
    Very nice, don't miss.
  • Les Abattoirs
    Modern art ? Open very limited hours.
  • Georges Labit Museum
  • Musee Saint-Raymond
  • Museum de Toulouse (AKA "MHNT" or "Museum d'Histoire Naturelle de la ville de Toulouse").
    Big, nice, often crowded, nice gardens behind. Don't miss.
  • Musee du Vieux-Toulouse.
    7 rue du May. Open MTWRFS 1400-1800.
  • Musee Paul-Dupuy.
    13 rue de la Pleau. Metro ligne B station Carmes.
    Admission free first Sunday of month.
    Pleasant, but really only the clock/watch exhibit impressed me.
  • History of Medicine Museum. Always free admission. Open very limited hours.
  • Espace Cobalt art gallery.
    55 Av Louis Breguet.
  • TripAdvisor's "Art Galleries in Toulouse"
  • Espace EDF Bazacle, an old decommissioned hydro power plant now turned into a free museum. Pretty nice.
  • Dome de la Grave.
    A functioning hospice or something, not a museum or monument as I expected.
  • Galerie du Chateau d'Eau.
    Admission €4 and not sure what is inside, decided not to do it.
  • Capitole building.
    Open free to the public when the mayor/government is not in session.
    Several huge rooms with statues and paintings, very nice.
  • All public museums are free on first Sunday of the month.


• Churches etc:
  • Toulouse Cathedral (AKA Cathedrale Saint-Etienne de Toulouse, AKA Cathedral of Saint Stephen).
    Big and pleasant but a strange layout.
    Part is closed-off and €5 admission, but we skipped that.
    Sunday mass at 11 was interesting.
  • Basilique Saint Sernin.
    Pleasant, and free except for the crypt/sanctuary area.
  • Le Couvent des Jacobins
  • Basilique Notre-Dame de la Daurade.
    6/2018 extremely dark, being renovated, large parts curtained off or empty.
  • Eglise Saint-Aubin.
    Closed when we were there, no sign saying when it's open.
  • Eglise Notre-Dame du Taur.
    Nice, and free.
  • Eglise St-Nicolas.
    Very nice, and free.
  • Eglise St-Pierre des Chartreux.
    Very nice, and free.
    But sign said mass Sunday at 1000, we went there, not open.
    Also nice university cafe up the street from it, back behind student housing.
  • Eglise Notre-Dame de la Dalbade.
    Pleasant, and free.
  • Chateau de la Reynerie.
    Metro red/1 to stop Reynerie (direction Basso Cambo).
    The park is pleasant, but the chateau is very hard to find (no signs) and plain and closed. Skip it.
  • Blagnac.
    Saw a bit of it along the tram line, didn't look very interesting.
    Odyssud park is pleasant, but uninteresting. Skip it.


• Music and theater:
  • Theatre du Capitole
  • Orchestre National du Capitole de Toulouse (Wikipedia's "Orchestre national du Capitole de Toulouse").
    Usually plays in La Halle aux Grains, not in Theatre du Capitole ? Double-check the location.
  • TripAdvisor's "Concerts in Toulouse"
  • L'auditorium Saint-Pierre des Cuisines
  • TNT - Theatre national de Toulouse


• To do:
  • Garonne River cruise.
    There are cruises on the canal and cruises on the river.
    Ones on the river (only July and August ?) may leave from either Plaza de la Dourade (near Notre Dame) or Port de l'Embouchure (hard to get to, maybe take "Navette Aeroport" bus/metro ?).
  • Stade Toulousain rugby union team (tickets)
  • Toulouse Olympique rugby league team (tickets).
    Stadium is "Stade Ernest Argeles" in Blagnac, along the river.
    Probably take Metro red/1 to stop Arenes, then tram T1 to stop Place du Relals, then walk east to river.
  • Toulouse FC football team (tickets)
  • La Cite de l'espace.
    Not easy to get to; have to take a bus.
    Admission €21-26.
  • Airbus factory.
    Take Metro red/1 to stop Arenes, then tram T1 to stop Beauzelle Aeroscopia, then 20-minute walk.
    Closed Sundays and holidays. Admission €16-24.
    No photography allowed on the tour/factory, but maybe inside the museum ?
    Reviews seem to say museum is good, panoramic tour is worthless.
    Lots of decidedly mixed reviews on Tripadvisor
  • Ailes Anciennes Toulouse.
    Open-air aircraft museum; aircraft being restored to display in Aeroscopia Museum.
    €6 admission.
    Tram T1 to Beauzelle stop and cross the ring road via the Pinot footbridge.
  • Disco etc: La Dynamo ?


• Transport:
  • Airport.
  • From Barcelona by train: have to change twice, Girona and Narbonne ? But no, there is a direct train once per day, cost about €55 each way, takes about 3 hours.
  • From Barcelona by bus: Megabus, Flixbus, Alsa.
    Takes about 6 hours. Our Flixbus from Barcelona didn't stop for food until about 5 hours in.
    If you're non-EU, you must carry your passport, not just your TIE. Driver will check before leaving, and police will check at the border.
  • Inside the city: bus, tram, metro: Tisseo
    All use same ticket; single ticket €1.60, 10-trip €13.40.


• Day-trips out of the city:
  • Carcassonne.
    Carcassonne Medieval City ramparts (nice, no need to pay), Cathar Castle, Chateau Comtal, Eglise Saint-Nazaire, Carcassonne Cathedral, St. Vincent's Church, Museum of Fine Arts (very nice; don't miss; free admission).
    90 KM from Toulouse, to SE.
    By bus, or train (75 minutes). But there seem to be few buses and we couldn't get a schedule.
    Town is split into two areas, old and new. Train station is on side of new town farthest from the old town, but the town is not big, quite walkable. No Tourist Info at the station; you have to walk down into the middle of new town to get to Tourist Info, but signs are good. Tourist info has good maps, helpful people, and free bathrooms. Enter old town via Porte d' Aude entrance. Free admission, and there's plenty of town and ramparts to see for free, we didn't bother going into the €9-admission area. Art museum (in new town) is quite nice and has nice sofas and free bathroom and free admission.
  • Albi.
    Cathedrale Sainte Cecile (mostly free, and quite nice), Musee Toulouse-Lautrec (expensive at €9 but probably worth it; bathrooms hard to find, take elevator to -1), Palais de la Berbie (museum is inside it), Les Jardins de la Berbie (free and okay).
    70 KM from Toulouse, to NE. 60 minutes by train.
  • Cordes-sur-Ciel.
    Eglise St-Michel, Musee des arts du sucre & du chocolat, Musee Charles Portal - Histoire et Architecture, Le Musee d'Art Moderne et Contemporain.
    70 KM from Toulouse, to NE, but maybe you have to go through Albi first, so 90 KM ? Train to Albi, bus to Cordes-sur-Ciel ?
  • Montauban
    Le Musee d'Histoire Naturelle Victor Brun (nice, crammed full of stuff, €3.50 admission), Eglise Saint-Jacques de Montauban (nice), Montauban Cathedral (nice), Archeodeco Boutique des Musees, Cortade Art MTB.
    50 KM from Toulouse, to N. 25 minutes by fast train, 40 minutes by normal train.
    From train station, go straight out and up Avenue de Mayenne, merge onto Avenue Aristide Briand, cross the river into the historic center.
    Tourist Info is about as far as you can get from the train station, completely on other side of town.
  • Lourdes.
    Grotte de Massabielle (the famous grotto), Basilique de l'Immaculee Conception, Sanctuary of Our Lady of Lourdes, Basilique Notre-Dame du Rosaire, Basilique Saint-Pie X., Sacre-Coeur Parish Church, Chateau Fort of Lourdes.
    120 KM from Toulouse, to WSW. 110 minutes by inter-city train.
  • Saint-Bertrand-de-Comminges.
    Cathedral of Saint Bertrand de Comminges.
    100 KM from Toulouse, to SW. 100 minutes by train.
  • Trains: SNCF.
    Don't understand the ticketing. The first time, an attendant helped us use the shiny white "grand line" ticket machine, and the fare was grand too, €17.50 one-way to Carcassone. The next time, an attendant helped us use the dingy old blue ticket machine, and the fare was €5 one-way to Albi, a distance not much less than the distance to Carcassone. The cheap ticket is "Billet Tikemouv", Classe 2, good on any train during the day. For the expensive ticket, we had to specify exact trains, so if we'd missed the train, I think we'd get no refund. Neither ticket, the expensive or the cheap, had a seat-assignment. So, use the blue machines and get the cheap ticket. In either case, validate your ticket before getting on the train.


• Tourist Office

Paris

• Google map
• RATP's Metro map
• We went in December, and it was too cold to really enjoy the city.
  
  
• Museums etc:
  • The Louvre: open MWRSS 0900-1800 and F 0900-2145, closed T.
    Pyramid is open 0900-2200.
    Metro: Palais-Royal / Musee du Louvre (lines 1 and 7), Pyramides (line 14).
    Buy tickets online and get a time-slot; €17.
    Art mostly from 1400's to 1600's, I think. Some ancient sculpture.
  • Musee d'Orsay:
    Closed M, open TWFSS 0930-1800, R 0930-2145. Admission €16.
    Across river from Louvre.
    RER C station Musee d'Orsay, or Metro 12 station Solferino.
    Art mostly from 1700's and 1800's.
  • Rodin Museum
  • Picasso Museum
  • Musee Marmottan-Monet. TWRFSS 1000-1800.
  • Musee de l'Orangerie
  • Centre Georges Pompidou (Beaubourg). Metro Chatelet ?
  • Jacquemart-Andre Museum
  • Le Palais Royal
  • Musee Carnavalet (history of Paris).
    TWRFSS 1000-1800. Free. 23 rue de Sevigne.
    Metro Saint-Paul or Chemin Vert, and walk 4-5 blocks.
  • Musee national Eugene Delacroix
  • Le Grand Palais
  • Palais de la Porte Doree (aquarium)
    TWRF 1000-1730, SS 1000-1900.
    Under construction until spring 2023.
  • Guimet Museum (Asian art)
  • Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle. Closed ???
  • Paris museum pass
  
  
• Churches etc:
  • Notre Dame Cathedral (closed after fire)
  • Basicila du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre:
    Open every day 0630 to 2230; free.
    Metro 12 or 2, then bus or cable car or climb up steps.
    Metro 2 to Anvers then cable car is good for our location.
  • Sainte-Chapelle: must buy ticket in advance, get time-slot. Open summer 0900-1900, winter 0900-1700.
    €11.50 or €18.50
    On island near Notre-Dame. Metro stop Cité.
    Well over-priced; skip it.
  • Eglise Saint-Eustache:
    Open MTWRF 0930-1900 Sat 1000-1915 Sun 0915-1915.
    Organ Sun 1730-1800.
    Free admission. Metro: Les Halles.
  • Eglise de la Madeleine.
    Open every day 0930-1900. Free admission.
    Metro Madeleine.
  
  
• Monuments etc:
  • Arc de Triomphe
  • Eiffel Tower. Avoid line, buy ticket online for specific time.
  • Place de la Republique
  • Champs Elysees: shops.
  • Colonne Vendome: shops.
  • Jardin des Tuileries: west side of The Louvre. Museum/hall "Jeu de Paume" in NW corner.
  • Jardin des Plantes. Includes Museum National d'Histoire Naturelle.
  • Parc Montsouris.
  • Luxembourg Gardens.
  • Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann: department store, in nice building. Near metro Chaussee d'Antin - La Fayette.
  
  
• Music and theater:
  • Opera Garnier / Paris Opera: usually mix of opera and ballet.
  • Theatre national de l'Opera-Comique
  • Comedie-Francaise (Theatre-Francais)
  • Opera Bastille: opera, ballet, symphony.
  • Philharmonie de Paris
  • La Madeleine
  
  
• To do:
  • Boat ride on the Seine. About €18/person for 1-hour cruise.
  • Walk on Promenade Plantee.
  • Walk on Promenade Canal St. Martin.
  • Walk on Coulee Verte Rene-Dumont. Metro Ledru-Rollin or Bastille.
  • Football game ? Palais Omnisport ? Stade Charlety ? Stade de France
  • Football: Parc des Princes (home of PSG).
  • Football: Paris FC
  • Football: Red Star
  • Football: RCF Paris
  • Football: Stade Francais Paris
  
  
• Outside:
  • Chateau de Versailles: WSW of Paris center, only about 15-20 KM away.
    Open 0900-1730, every day except M.
    Trains arrive to 3 train stations around the palace. T+ ticket not valid.
    Maybe take RER line C to Versailles Chateau - Rive Gauche train station. Train runs about every 30 minutes, and stops at every station.
    It's okay if you arrive late for your time-slot, they will let you in.
    Versailles map
    "We recommend that visitors download the free Versailles visitor application", but I found it to be useless.
  • Disneyland Paris: 32 KM east of Paris. on Wikitravel
  • Chateau de Fontainebleau
    Closed Tuesdays; generally open 0930-1800.
    55 KM SE of Paris.
    "Take the train from Paris Gare de Lyon (main lines) towards Montargis, Montereau, or Laroche-Migennes, and get off at the Fontainebleau-Avon station. [then?] Bus line 1 heading towards Les Lilas to the 'Chateau' stop."
    On Wikipedia
  
  
• Transport:
  • Train from Barcelona to Paris
  • Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG):
    Located on the edge of the northern suburbs of Paris.
    Take line RER B, maybe to/from Gare du Nord (about €10 one-way; apparently the trains run very frequently).
    Take bus 350 (not for terminal 2), to/from Gare de l'Est.
    [When leaving, we should have bought a combined metro-and-RER-airport ticket at our starting metro station, it would have saved a lot of searching at Gare du Nord, where the cash ticket counter is upstairs from the main floor.]
  • Paris-Orly Airport: located in the southern suburbs of Paris.
  • RATP's Metro map
  • Metro, RER train, and local buses run daily from 0530 to about 0115 (0215 on Friday and Saturday). Night buses run 1230 to 0530.
  • Zones 1-3 include downtown Paris and the closest urban areas.
  • RATP's "Travel passes and prices"
  • "t+" ticket: one-way single trip. €1.90
  • Re-usable transit card: Navigo Easy, costs €2.
  • "Bonjour RATP" smartphone app: same as Navigo Easy card.
  • Weekly pass (Navigo Semaine): Valid from a Monday through next Sunday. Zone 1-5 cost €23, but we paid €28 ? Have to stick a photo on it.
  
  
• There is a Paris tourism tax for those renting an apartment.
  
• July 14: Bastille Day.
  
• Tourist Info
  
• Tourist Info offices
  

Portugal

• Braga:
  • xxx
  
  
  
• Porto:
  • xxx
  Wikitravel's "Porto"
  Wikipedia's "Porto"
  TripAdvisor's "Porto"
  George aka Jiri Sifalda's "Digital nomad's survival guide to Porto, Portugal - how to live as a local"
  
  
  
• Coimbra:
  • xxx
  
  
  
• Lisbon:
  • Mosteiro dos Jeronimos (monastery) and Museu da Marinha (maritime museum)
  • Calouste Gulbenkian Museum - Founder's Collection (art)
  • Panteao Nacional. Admission €4; Sunday morning free.
  • Palacio Nacional da Ajuda
  • National Museum of Ancient Art
  • Santa Maria de Belem Church
  • Pavilhao do Conhecimento (science museum)
  • National Museum of Natural History and Science
  • Oceanario de Lisboa (aquarium)
  • CCB (Belem Cultural Center) (contemporary art)
  • Lisbon Metropolitan Orchestra: performs at CCB.
  • Portuguese Symphony Orchestra: performs at CCB.
  • Football: Bilhetes SL Benfica
  • Football: Sporting Clube de Portugal
  • Football: Clube de Futebol Os Belenenses
  • Football: Wikipedia
  • Beaches: on Atlantic, either W or S of city. article1, article2
  • Boat tour along the coast.
  • Outside: Sintra and Cascais Day Trip (bus).
  • Outside: Fatima (shrine) Batalha Nazare Obidos full-day trip (bus).
  • Metro: one-way from airport to center about €2.
  • Transit: rechargeable green-coloured card 7 Colinas (Viva Viagem), but there may be different cards for suburbs, train, ferries.
  • Transit: 1-month unlimited card (Lisboa Viva): €41. Specific to one person; you have to show ID.
  • Taxis (especially from airport) are very likely to cheat you.
  Google map
  Metro guide
  Wikitravel's "Lisbon"
  Wikipedia's "Lisbon"
  TripAdvisor's "Lisbon"
  Official Tourist Office (main office at Praca do Comercio)
  
  
  
• Faro:
  • xxx
  
  

Africa

• Tangier, Morocco:
  
  
  • Ferry to Algeciras.
  
  Wikipedia's "Tangier"
  Tim Adams' "Marrakech: First Impressions"
  
  
  
• Ceuta (possession of Spain):
  
  
  • Ferry to Algeciras.
  
  
  
  

General

Lima, Peru

• Churches and buildings:
  • Convento de San Francisco.
  • Catedral de Lima.
  • Palacio Municipal, in Miraflores.
  • Correo Central.
  • Facultad de Medicina San Fernando UNMSM.
  • Gran Biblioteca Publica de Lima.
  • Biblioteca Nacional del Peru, in San Borja.
  
  
  
• Museums:
  • Museo de la Nacion, in San Borja.
  • Casa Museo Ricardo Palma, in Miraflores.
  • Museo Amano, in Miraflores.
  • Museo Enrico Poli, in Miraflores.
  • El Funicular (art), in Barranco.
  • Museo de Arte Colonial Pedro de Osma, in Barranco.
  • Museo Galeria Arte Popular de Ayacucho, in Barranco.
  • Museo Antonio Raimondi, in La Molina.
  • Museo de Plateria Peruana Vittorio Azzariti, in La Molina.
  • Museo de la Nacion, in San Borja.
  • Museo Aeronautico, in Surco.
  • Museo de Historia Natural de la PUCP, in Surco.
  • Museo de Oro del Peru y Armas del Mundo, in Surco.
  • Centro Cultural de la Escuela Nacional de Bellas Artes.
  • Casa Museo Jose Carlos Mariategui.
  • Casa Museo Miguel Grau.
  • Galeria Juan Pardo Heeren.
  • Galeria Pancho Fierro.
  • Galeria ICPNA San Miguel.
  • Museo Andres del Castillo.
  • Museo de Arte Italiano.
  • Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI).
  • Museo de Arte de San Marcos.
  • Museo Metropolitano de Lima.
  • Museo Militar (Centro de Estudios Historicos Militares).
  • Museo de Historia Natural UNMSM, in Jesus Maria.
  • National Museum of Archaeology and History (Museo Nacional de Antropologia, Arqueologia e Historia del Peru), in Pueblo Libre.
  • Museo Larco (Museo Arqueologico Rafael Larco Hoyle), in Pueblo Libre.
  • ARTCO, in San Isidro.
  • Enlace Arte Contemporaneo, in San Isidro.
  
  
  
• Parks and plazas:
  • Parque de la Exposicion (Parque de Lima).
  • Parque de la Reserva (Circuito Magico del Agua).
  • Parque Universitario.
  
  
  
• Events:
  • Gran Teatro Nacional in San Borja.
  • Teatro Felipe Pardo y Aliaga.
  • Teatro Municipal.
  • Teatro Segura.
  • Football:
    • ???
    
    
    
  
  
  
• Cuzco and Machu Picchu:
  • Wikitravel's "Cuzco"
  • Wikitravel's "Machu Picchu"
  • Plane from Lima to Cuzco takes about 80 minutes, costs about $150 round-trip.
  • Luxury tourist buses run twice daily between Lima and Cuzco, with Cruz del Sur and other services. But the trip takes about 22 hours one-way, costs $45 to $72.
    Go2Peru's "Bus from Lima to Cuzco"
  
  
  
• Transport:
  • Jorge Chavez International Airport
  • Airport Express Lima (bus)
  • Long-distance buses:
    The Only Peru Guide's "Bus Information in Lima"
  • Local buses:
    Lonely Planet's "Getting around Lima by bus"
    Expat Peru's "Taking the Bus in Lima"
    Metropolitano (official bus company; "El Metro" rapid double-length buses; uses rechargeable cards; runs about 0500-2230 ?)
  • Metro de Lima (Tren Electrico): Linea 1 del Metro de Lima (runs about 0500-2230 ?)
  
  
  
• Foreigners should not drink the tap water in Peru.